Just discovered this, looks pretty cool: https://organicmaps.app/
It's a very fast implementation of OSM for the phone. Importantly, they're open-source and they claim "no ads, no tracking, no data collection". I'm trying it out in the last days and it works really smooth! The UI is crisp and simple
P.S. Did anybody build their desktop version? https://github.com/organicmaps/organicmaps/blob/master/docs/INSTALL.md#desktop-app Feedback welcomed if you've tried it
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