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An exhibition highlighting London-based designer Bethany Williams' waste-combating, social-driven vision for the fashion industry has opened at the Design Museum.
Exhibited in the atrium of London's Design Museum, Bethany Williams: Alternative Systems is a celebration of Williams' work which explores and responds to social issues through the use of community-led enrichment initiatives.
Bethany Williams: Alternative Systems is a free display in the atrium of the Design Museum
A number of key works by the designer were exhibited across the four walls of the atrium's balcony gallery, which is free to entry.
Mannequins are displayed among textiles samples, photography and raw waste materials in efforts to highlight the studio's commitment to sustainable fashion.
The display was chosen to be shown in a free entry space in the museum
"I decided to organise the display thematically rather than by collection," said Design Museum's head of curatorial and interpretation Priya Khanchandani.
"It opens with a section about the studio specifically and then there's a part about creative process, intellectual references and the way in which they propose alternative infrastructures of working, followed by a section about reuse and another about community collaborations," she told Dezeen.
"Bethany's work not only tackles the question of the environmental impact of design, but it also has an amazing social purpose."
The exhibition design was completed by Edit
Williams is a fashion designer, humanitarian and artist. She graduated from Brighton University with a degree in Critical Fine Art before receiving a master's from the London College of Fashion in Menswear.
She launched her namesake brand in 2017 and has strived to spotlight and respond to social and environmental issues, her works see her partnering with local grassroots programs and manufacturing collections using waste materials.
Garments are exhibited alongside research, drawings and materials
A section of the display exhibits Willliams' work as part of the Emergency Designer Network. The initiative is a collaboration between herself and designers Phoebe English, Cozette McCreery and Holly Fulton.
The group of creatives, with their textile manufacturing knowledge and teams of volunteers, produced 12,000 scrubs, 100,000 masks and 4,000 gowns for frontline healthcare workers during the peak of the coronavirus pandemic.
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Waste from packaging tape sourced from Rimini, Italy was handwoven and constructed into functional items and garments as part of Williams's Autumn Winter 2018 collection, which was on display.
"I felt it was very important to show not just the finished garments, which you would see in a retail fashion context; being a museum display I wanted to add other layers of information," explained Khanchandani.
Williams' work merges streetwear and craft
"There are process materials like drawings and sketches, and also source material," said Khanchandani. "For instance, a jacket made of waste newspaper is shown alongside some of the waste material, the Liverpool Echo, which is dangling next to the garment."
"You're able to see the journey of the objects from inception, to finished product."
Williams has collaborated with San Patrignano, a drug and alcohol rehabilitation programme
Each season, the fashion studio collaborates with different local charities and grassroots programs and donates a percentage of its profits to its causes.
"With our work, we hope to continue to reach new audiences, encourage inclusivity and positive change for the fashion industry," said Williams. "The Design Museum continues to be aligned with this via the exhibitions curated, including their Waste Age exhibition, which we featured in last year."
"We are so proud to showcase our new exhibition: Bethany Williams: Alternative Systems, a celebration of the new way of working proposed for the fashion industry by the studio's work."
Dresses and corsetry feature boning constructed from waste materials
The opening of Bethany Williams: Alternative Systems was timed to coincide with Williams' Autumn Winter 2022 collection, titled The Hands that Heal Us, which was presented at the museum.
The collection included a cactus leather jacket, and garments made from recycled and organic-based denim with detachable metal hardware that aid the recycling process at the end of its life.
A skeleton suit was informed by a 19th-century children's playsuit
In 2016, Williams graduated from London College of Fashion and showed her MA graduate collection in the university's show as part of London Fashion Week.
Last year's Waste Age exhibition at the Design Museum, which featured Williams' work, explored how design has contributed to the increasing throwaway culture and how people can create an alternative circular economy that doesn't exploit the planet.
Photography is byFelix Speller.
Bethany Williams: Alternative Systems is on display at the Design Museum from 22 February 2022. See Dezeen Events Guide for all the latest architecture and design events taking place around the world.
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Barcelona-based gallery Il-lacions has opened an exhibition at Madrid Design Festival that features over 70 furnishings, sculptures and design pieces in an effort to explore contemporary design.
The theme of the exhibition is centred around its name, Inferences/Inferencias, which Il-lacions described as "the action and effect of inferring one thing from another, a link between ideas, the consequence of something."
Inferences/Inferencias is a group exhibition that was exhibited as part of Madrid Design Festival
The gallery selected one piece of work by each of the artists it represents, who were then asked to become co-curators of the exhibition and invite a designer, maker or artist whom they admired to also exhibit a piece of work.
The resulting 74 sculptures and furniture pieces displayed in the exhibition were arranged on and around a large angular display table that was finished to mimic concrete.
A wooden stool by Sanna Völker is a tribute to architect Louis Kahn
All of the works in the show focus on one or more topics specified by the gallery, such as research and development in new materials, object functionality, sustainability and production processes.
"We would like to arouse curiosity towards contemporary design, visitors can read about the pieces and even touch them with care," Il-lacions told Dezeen. "We would like them to learn about materials, functionality and ingenuity in design."
A light installation titled Ignoring Helena by Michael Roschach is placed nearby Burned Ode Chair by Sizar Alexis
"We hope people understand the amount of work behind each piece, there’s a lot of research and experimentation," the gallery said.
"These are inspirational objects that contribute to giving interiors something more than just a function, they are emotional and unique," it added.
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"We would like to stimulate new views on design and thinking to shape contemporary values, and together with the creators to generate a cultural heritage that reflects this time and this place," the gallery said.
Among the pieces on display is Joel Blanco's Shiba-Inu dog sculpture with a built-in ASIC cryptocurrency miner. This uses the exhibition space's electricity to mine Dogecoin and is a commentary on financial freedom and an anarcho-capitalist future, according to the designer.
Also exhibited is a Jesmonite and fibreglass chair by Six N. Five, embedded with an authentication chip built on Blockchain technology that allows the piece to be minted as an NFT.
Objects, fixtures and furnishings were hung from walls and placed throughout the gallery space
A number of the works on show also feature reused and recycled materials.
"Josep Vila Capdevila is reusing pieces from old factories (fluorescents, cables, a pulley) and he mixes it with noble materials such as marble to create the Suspended Lamp exhibited – he classifies this piece as 'Random Luxury'," the gallery said.
"The 'Aluminium Block' side table by Toni Pallejà is reinterpreting industrial materials, transforming them into elements that convey luxury and fashion."
The exhibition features 74 objects, furnishings and sculptures that discuss contemporary design
Il-lacions was founded in 2011 by Xavier Franquesa. Inferences/Inferencias forms part of the fifth edition of Madrid Design Festival, a month-long event that transforms the city into a design hub.
Also exhibited at this year's edition is a light installation by Antoni Arola that forms architecture from light. Previous editions saw Jorge Penadés invite 14 designers to showcase "bold ideas in small boxes".
The photography is by Asier Rua.
Inferences/Inferencias is on display at the Cultural Centre of Villa Fernán-Gómez as part of Madrid Design Festival, which takes place from 15 February to 13 March 2022. See Dezeen Events Guide for all the latest architecture and design events taking place around the world.
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An exhibition at Shanghai's Power Station of Design museum showcased 130 pieces of work by British, Turkish-Cypriot fashion designer Hussein Chalayan that explore his career, themes of race, culture and migration.
Titled Hussein Chalayan: Archipelago, the exhibition was divided into a number of chapters, or fictional islands of an archipelago.
Hussein Chalayan: Archipelago wsa on show at Shanghai's Power Station of Design museum
Over 130 pieces by Chalayan were exhibited, with each of the chapters-cum-fictional islands exploring the key themes that encompass Chalayan's designs, creations and collections.
Chalayan is best known for his designs that transcend both fashion and art. His collections often include futuristic garments including his Autumn Winter 2000 show, where garments doubled as home furnishings.
The exhibition contained 130 works by Hussein Chalayan
The exhibition starts with two works from Chalayan's first and second collections that were made after graduating in 1993 from London's Central Saint Martins university.
From here, garments, objects, images and films made between 1993 and 2020 were displayed across and within monochromatic platforms and alcoves of varying shapes and sizes.
The exhibition is Power Station of Art's first fashion exhibit
"Through his designs, people can get a strong feeling for his thinking and criticism on the dichotomies of globalization and localism, the individual and the grand world theatre, and mechanistic views and the spiritual world," said the museum.
"Clothing as body cover is another kind of escape, a detachment of emotions, and a site of contradictions. Chalayan lets his clothes oscillate between the two-dimensional (tailoring, films) and three-dimensional (fashion shows) in an effort for them to overcome their wearers and become disembodied, nameless narrators."
The exhibition highlights Chalayan's key works
Mechanical dresses from Chalayan's Autumn Winter 2007 show titled Airborne were exhibited within a black-painted display unit. Mannequins were draped in the illuminated and laser-cut garments and elegantly posed as though taking off for flight.
"He once stated that he wanted 'to create a sense of life for the clothes,' which is also what we hope and imagine for the islands of this exhibition," said the museum.
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The ninth chapter of the exhibition displayed pieces from the Act to Form collection, which was shown during London Fashion Week's Autumn Winter 2017 schedule.
Mannequins were positioned ripping through the exhibition's paper walls wearing garments that were ripped open to reveal glitter- and confetti-filled linings and innards. The collection explored and revisited ideas surrounding Greek civilisation and identity.
The exhibition was divided into nine different chapters
Positive moulds of busts used to create garments, from Chalayan's Spring Summer 2006 collection titled Inertia, were suspended from the ceiling, while the negative moulds were built into the exhibition walls.
"Hussein Chalayan liberates garments from their restraints in terms of function, trends, and the fashion industry, allowing them to express themselves more freely and profusely," said the museum.
His work often features radical designs
"Chalayan repeatedly discusses the topics of migration, travel, separation, and return, and they become more complex and unpredictable through the intervention of technology and cyberspace," said the museum.
"Transcending cultural divides, transcending race, transcending religion, transcending the human body, transcending gene theory; Chalayan weaves the mysticism, Moorish, Teutonic, as well as East Asian cultures into his creations."
The exhibition is Chalayan's first Chinese exhibit
In 2015, Chalayan designed elasticated costumes and sequinned garments for performers in his first self-directed dance production at Sadler's Wells theatre.
In 2018, he was awarded the London Design Medal not long after his Act to Form show at London's Sadler's Wells in 2017, which marked the designer's return to London Fashion Week after showing in Paris for over a decade.
Hussein Chalayan: Archipelago was on show at the Power Station of Art. SeeDezeen Events Guide for an up-to-date list of architecture and design events taking place around the world.
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Architecture studio Assemble is one of the creators behind Dreamachine, an immersive art installation that will take place later this year as part of the Unboxed: Creativity in the UK festival.
Events producer Collective Act has conceived Dreamachine as a touring art installation that draws on the "ancient" phenomenon that flickering lights can be used to create colourful patterns behind closed eyelids.
"The use of flickering light to create vivid visual experiences can be traced as far back as ancient civilisations when communities would congregate around campfires and peer into the shimmers," said Collective Act.
"Today, the phenomenon is known to researchers as 'stroboscopically induced visual hallucinations' – and this provides the scientific foundation for the entire Dreamachine project."
Dreamachine is an art installation that visitors experience while their eyes are shut
Visitors will enter the "machine", a room designed by Turner Prize-winning London architecture studio Assemble, and lie down while listening to a musical score by electronic music artist Jon Hopkins.
As they relax, pulsating lights are streamed into the room which stimulates the optic nerve, triggering animated, kaleidoscopic patterns of colours behind their eyelids.
The effect is similar to the flurry of flickering tunnel or roadside lights that pass over closed eyes when travelling in a vehicle at night.
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Collective Act based Dreamachine on an invention artist Brion Gysin devised in 1959. The original device comprised a cylinder with holes cut into the sides around a suspended light, which is placed on a record player.
As the light spins, it projected light at a rate that matched the music and corresponds to waves present in the brain during relaxation.
"The primary phenomenon – the rich inner experiences created by the Dreamachine – involves our brain activity matching the frequency of the flickering light," the organisation added.
"Designed to be the 'first artwork to be experienced with your eyes closed', Gysin had a vision for his invention to replace the TV in every home in America," it explained.
Flickering patterns of light behind their eyelids are meant to relax the mind
Collective Act collaborated with scientists and psychologists from the Universities of Sussex and Glasgow to create the art installation, which it hopes will make us question the power of our own minds and our consciousness.
"Dreamachine is a powerful new kind of immersive experience exploring the limitless potential of the human mind," Collective Act said.
"The team is investigating the idea that flickering lights impose a 'beat' on the rhythms of brain, similar to the 'alpha' rhythm – a brain state normally associated with relaxation," it continued.
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Other projects at the UK government-funded Unboxed: Creativity in the UK include Tour de Moon, a series of touring events by designer Nelly Ben Hayoun.
The festival previously had the working name Festival UK* 2022 but became known as the Festival of Brexit, because it was conceived while the UK government was negotiating its withdrawal from the European Union and timed to take place a few years after the UK left.
Artist Richard Littler proposed a satirical poster for "Festival of Brexit Britain", based on the cover of the original guide for the Festival of Britain, which took place in 1951.
Dreamachine takes place from May 2022 in London, Belfast, Cardiff and Edinburgh as part of Unboxed: Creativity in the UK. See Dezeen Events Guide for an up-to-date list of architecture and design events taking place around the world.
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Dezeen promotion: a multi-species refuge made from mycelium and a project exploring how bacteria can be used as an architectural tool is included in an upcoming event by Driving the Human, which will examine how humans can live in symbiosis with other species.
Titled 21 Visions for Eco-social Renewal, the hybrid event is hosted by Forecast and will take place from 15 to 17 October in Berlin's Radialsystem cultural centre, as well as online in the form of a digital broadcast.
The exhibition includes projects by Indian artist Sonia Mehra Chawla (above) as well as Brazilian designer Clara Acioli (top image)
The event will showcase twenty-one case studies selected from an open call, which was held at the start of this year and elicited more than a thousand proposals by designers and artists from 99 countries around the world.
The chosen concepts intend to address some of the most pressing topics of our time including the circular economy, artificial intelligence, and the resurrection of indigenous knowledge, in a bid to explore how humanity can move from a parasitic to a symbiotic relationship with nature.
Nonhuman Nonsense has proposed a Universal Declaration of Martian Rights
"In their diversity, these Visions for Eco-social Renewal reinforce perspectives where collaboration and interdependency become essential, determining factors for life and survival on our planet," said Driving the Human, a joint three-year collaboration between various scientific, art and design institutions across Germany.
Among the proposals on show is Universal Declaration of Martian Rights by design collective Nonhuman Nonsense and Server Farm by artist James Bridle, who suggests building a computer out of – and in collaboration with – plants.
The Server Farm project by James Bridle proposes building a computer out of plants
Similarly, Brazilian designer Clara Acioli explores using living plants and fungi to create a hive for native bees, while a project from the Hub for Biotechnology in the Built Environment examines how bacteria can be used to create living interfaces and integrated into architecture to communicate information about the surrounding environment.
Other concepts focus more on reimagining interpersonal collaboration, with Turin-based Andrea de Chirico exploring how native materials and knowledge can be used to form everyday objects as part of new hyperlocal supply chains. The full list of projects can be explored on the Driving the Human website.
Andrea de Chirico's Superlocal project explores the local, small-scale production of everyday items
The exhibition is organised by Driving the Human, a joint project by mentorship programme Forecast, research institute Acatech, the Karlsruhe University of Arts and Design, and the ZKM Centre for Art and Media.
In the next phase of the project, seven of these 21 concepts will be developed into tangible prototypes, which are set to be presented in December 2022.
Driving the Human: 21 visions for Eco-social Renewal takes place from 15 to 17 October 2021 at Radialsystem in Berlin and online at drivingthehuman.com.
Partnership content
This article was written by Dezeen for Driving the Human as part of a partnership. Find out more about Dezeen partnership contenthere.
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Museumsmeile Bonn
In der Bundeskunsthalle an der Museumsmeile in Bonn
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